Tuesday, August 16, 2011

New Perak Expedition - Epiphany Part 2


PROLOGUE: Map is not the territory. Which is why GPS really comes in handy!


We continued our journey to Pasir Salak. A place once bloomed as one of the centre of British administration back in colonization era. Now a peaceful kampung area, leaving behind all legacy of blood once garishly coloured the scene...

And I came to pay respect to the one caused everything in the first place, JWW Birch.



Unfortunately his tomb located deep within a plantation. Plus, the road leading to it was bumpy as all hell. On the way, my tire got stuck with some twigs. As I went out to pull it away, howls of unknown primates and canines perilously all over the air. 

"Birch, don't tell me you've got your own personal guards...".

Personal safety won over curiosity . We called off the visit and head for the nearest exit.


Whatever you say Birch. Just don't let me change your R with T.

Next we went to the Pasir Salak Historical Complex. Time was already past 5 pm and it was already closed. We took a few pics of the exteriors of the complex, the site where Birch was killed, and the grave site of one of the killers, Seputum, Malaya's very own Ezio Auditore!  





Sungai Perak, the only surviving witness of the Birch assassination.


It was getting dark, so me and Razif drove back to Kuala Kangsar. Along the way, we stopped by at Gua Tempurung. It already closed, and we just chatted with the only guard available. He told stories about his 10 years experience with the cave -of course a bit tinge of paranormals.

Interesting, very interesting indeed. It's been a while since the last time I had the speleological adventure. Next time, indeed this cave is a must go!




Next morning, we went to this gallery below at Kuala Kangsar. The gallery storing mementos of the current sultan of Perak. Outfits, antiquities, souvenirs, you know that stuffs. In short, all things glorifying Sultan Azlan Shah!


We were exhausted after seeing all those spoons, plates, pajamas, portraits, jewelries, all things trivial and crucial. We took a nap at the VIP room. Comfy. Cool. Royal. El grande. Only for both of us that afternoon! 


Guys, make way for the His Highness and Most Holiness Tun Tan Sri Dato' Amar Diraja Yang Berbahagia Lagi Mulia Razif! Wait,something about the couch...


Yep, a gift from Emperor of Japan himself just for Razif to have a good midday snooze~



Yo king, were busts or statues are meant for fallen heroes and Islam endorse aniconism? Oh I forgot you're the king and kings have exemptions and lot of excuses.



Picture perfect with a princess beside. Oh my darling angel, where were you when I need one.


We prayed at the nearby Ubudiah Mosque, the edifice already covered in my blog before. Then, I paid some respect on the great Sultan Idris, ancestor of Sultan Azlan Shah. He was responsible for the mosque. Responsible for my brother's alma mater Universiti Pendidikan Sultan Idris. 

He criticized them during Durbar meeting in 1897 and enjoyed British money afterwards. And responsible for keeping Perak chained under the colonialist administration. 



His tomb dominated the Royal Mausoleum beside the mosque. May you rest in peace, brother Idris.


Outside, I spotted one grand tomb. It belonged to the previous Perak Sultan. I concluded that the adjacent empty plot is where Sultan Azlan Shah will be interred. Sorry dear king, I already booked your final resting place :) 



Before I head home for good in KL, I stopped by at a junction in Kuala Kangsar with the oldest rubber tree in Malaysia. Such a historical plant that this is the forefather of all rubber trees of Malaysia that turned Malaya into one of the rubber producers in the world and cash cow for the British colonialists. I took a fallen bark as souvenir.  



In the end, these lines shall suit them all well:

Two big houses,
One incomplete,
Other turned gallery,
Such void, lifeless,
Not even  fit to call home~

The journey was an enlightenment. Even at places so familiar as these in Perak, I always find something to discover. I shall always look forward for more travels in the states of Malaysia, and ultimately, more entries for my blog. 

This is no longer just about traveling, this is my spiritual journey, my personal pilgrimage...

... and it has been my true epiphany.

RESPECTO.

Saturday, August 13, 2011

New Perak Expedition - Epiphany Part 1




PROLOGUE: 5 Months Hiatus. Gone through one helluva ride of life. And I missed blogging so damn freakin' much!


I know I've been MIA for almost half of century. I forgot about traveling. I forgot about blogging.

I forgot about life...

...and all the sweetness that its juice has to offer.

Nevertheless, it's so good to be here again. This time I went back to Perak again to seek refuge under the calmness and soothing atmosphere of old Kuala Kangsar. My best buddy Razif has been great host as usual. We planned for yet-to-go places and there in nearby Batu Gajah amidst the drizzling dewy drops, we found a perfect spot.


All photos are courtesy from Razif with his over powerful DSLR. 


At far, it stood majestically on a hill. Yet it seemed to mourn over itself...

crying...
begging...

Guys, meet Kellie's Castle - Mansion of Mourner.





"I expected you snapped all alphabets." Oh well, guys, take a wild guess. Is it KELUMPOR? KEUWWLL? or KELUANGMAN?

The big house was constructed in 1915 until 1926 when it remains unfinished today. With empty hallways, unpainted walls and ceilings, the mansion was merely skeleton of its former self that once grandiosely imagined by its Scottish owner, William Kellie Smith.

3 floors and off we go exploring them all!


At the altar of the house's chapel. No more blessing Mary on this one.



From Italy to England to Malaya to where is it now?



Will, are you sure this is the place because...


The bar was sure hot as all hell. Plus no ventilation whatsoever and in complete darkness. (I can't see a thing during this photo shoot even at broad daylight). I think this was a bar + sauna.



Spooky corridor. If he indeed still lingers, he and the tourist will have a great time having afternoon tea. Or a bit of Scottish fiddle. But I personal think he might say this.



Yeah Will, ye olde homestead is indeed far, far away...




One interesting point though, the mansion was built for his dear wife. The picture here said she was young and beautiful. To me she looked like your usual English version of makcik living in similar English counterpart of Kg Changkat. Agnes Smith, could it be..?    


I guess genetic manipulation was a incomplete back then. Better take the mother, Will! 


Now some outdoor venture of the castle compound. The afternoon drizzle later subsided. With skill obtained from my ancestor via Animus, I tried to ascend the wall of Will's castle-



Tried to peek on the ghost of Agnes Smith but yielded none...



Finally reached the summit of Kellie's Castle 3 floors high! Felt like Mother Russia here...



And the air up there provided quite a view...


OK, enough Ezio /Altair/ Spiderman crap already!


On top of old well. Not well to drink.

Razif also struggled to climb. God-damn he's fast!


"Pak Ali, why don't you just use stairs like everybody else?". 
No wonder.



At one of the guard's house. An incomplete jigsaw. Something is missing. 



That's better.

The tour was concluded after some 1 hour exploration. As we head to our ride, we took a quick glance on Will's balcony. A bird flew peculiarly awkward and plummeted to the ground nearby. It was a chick of unknown bird species to me. Sick and wounded. Probably bitten by some wild cat. We put it properly under a tree and sadly left it to fate of whatever Mother Nature would cast upon it...


The bird in red circle.


Aww, you poor little darling... Don't worry. Some hungry snake will fetch you later. 


We left Will and his perpetual plea to restore his mansion. Next, we continue southwards for Pasir Salak. We lost our ways quite a few times. Yet, we this opportunity to discover new routes and places. 

Lot of new places. New people with new memories. Perak never fails to mesmerize me...

Pasir Salak. I hope both ghosts of Birch and Maharajalela would receive me with open arms,

in the land once hateful violence ruled supreme, 
and now such a peace and quiet sanctuary...

(to be continued)

RESPECTO.

Monday, February 7, 2011

Ulu Klang Double Disasters - Ruins Revisited

1993 catastrophe - Highland Towers Collapse. (hazis.wordpress.com)
2008 nightmare - Bukit Antarabangsa Landslide.

December 1993 and 2008. Dates remembered by Malaysians for the calamities it had created. News went wild about landslides struck Ulu Klang which had razed an apartment called Highland Towers and bungalows at Bukit Antarabangsa, killing 48 and 5 people respectively. An area so close to my home, I swore I could feel tremors at the moment it happened...

Now after 18 and 3 years, I took the time off during this Chinese New Year to go back to the site and see how the aftermaths have turned up. The trip was unnerving since a lot of lives had perished there plus I ventured into the realm of the dead all alone... Nevertheless, let the journey down the memory lane begin!

First, a stop at the infamous landslide...

What the site looks like today. Tidier, greener slope.

"(Beyonce) I'm a survivor!", the house.

Barren landscape, a reminder of nature's wrath.

"The landslide has got nothing to do with me", another house.

One man against nature - resistance is futile.

Next, to the top of the action. Had a few conversation with an Indonesian worker maintaining a house. A few 'FOR SALE' signs. He told me the price of whopping RM 1 million. A big sum and what will you get in return? The feel of how fragile you would become.      


A closer look to where it all began 3 years ago.

Nice view to look forward to every time you wake up, and lucky to be alive.

Faraway site of former bungalows.

One of the abandoned house, waiting to be restored to its former glory...

Second, the site of the fallen apartment. People avoided this place due to urban myth of paranormal things but the junkies find their sanctuary here. It was completely covered with overgrown bushes,  making the site more of a hidden settlement rather than a spooky one.

A madam living nearby told me it was OK to go. I readied my knife as I moved into the unknown, prepared for whatever surprises might be stored for me there...   


Behold, the forgotten Two Towers.

This view gave me chills. Certainly not for the faint-hearted.

With a gut as big as KLCC, I went inside...

Display of once celebrated home, now doomed for its existence.   

Former parking lot. Mud covering the tarmac, littered with untold debris...

I'm going up there. I'm not kidding.

For safety concerns, dwellers evacuated the remaining two towers. After a few deliberations, I started to walk upon the steps to discover what happened inside after 18 years of abandonment...

My paths were slow and careful. My blade was ready. Indeed, emotions ran wild like I never experienced before...  

The apartments were stripped of their materials. Surprisingly, this marble wall was exceptionally well-preserved.

A graffiti of an unknown entity. 

Another well-preserved ceiling decoration.

A view from the 3rd floor. Notice the banana plantations up front . That is the site which claimed 48 lives...

Remnants of kitchens. No more cooking in these ones...

A hidden Pond of Oblivion. Compare to what it used to be during its heyday. 

Free vacation in the jungle, anyone?
After trudging steps, finally I was up there at the top of the Tower! Certainly I was not the first person but I took personal pride for overcoming the fear and went for it after many years of seeing it from afar.

Glad to be alive, and here I am telling the tale...  


Adjacent apartment in sight.

This must be where they used to have rooftop parties. Not anymore.

Former penthouse now lies in utter ruins.

Picturesque view of whole Klang Valley from the penthouse.

Deep hole used to place an elevator.

Transformer station no longer meets the eye.

At the very top of Highland Towers. This is what you see from the MRR2 road.

In awe of the nature's beauty, and fury.

I ran down quick and straight to my ride without looking back. Yet somehow I heard a faint, distant cry whispering to my ear. "Tell Malaysia what have happened here..." Maybe it was my imagination, but who knows, it might be the voice of the 48 souls still stuck in the pile beneath the banana plantations...

Humans are entrusted to take care of Mother Earth as the ultimate species ever walked the land. We just messed with the nature. Sooner or later, we have to pay the price.    

RESPECTO.