New Perak Expedition - Epiphany Part 2

PROLOGUE: Map is not the territory. Which is why GPS really comes in handy!

We continued our journey to Pasir Salak. A place once bloomed as one of the centre of British administration back in colonization era. Now a peaceful kampung area, leaving behind all legacy of blood once garishly coloured the scene...

And I came to pay respect to the one caused everything in the first place, JWW Birch.

Unfortunately his tomb located deep within a plantation. Plus, the road leading to it was bumpy as all hell. On the way, my tire got stuck with some twigs. As I went out to pull it away, howls of unknown primates and canines perilously all over the air. 

"Birch, don't tell me you've got your own personal guards...".

Personal safety won over curiosity . We called off the visit and head for the nearest exit.

Whatever you say Birch. Just don't let me change your R with T.

Next we went to the Pasir Salak Historical Complex. Time was already past 5 pm and it was already closed. We took a few pics of the exteriors of the complex, the site where Birch was killed, and the grave site of one of the killers, Seputum, Malaya's very own Ezio Auditore!  

Sungai Perak, the only surviving witness of the Birch assassination.

It was getting dark, so me and Razif drove back to Kuala Kangsar. Along the way, we stopped by at Gua Tempurung. It already closed, and we just chatted with the only guard available. He told stories about his 10 years experience with the cave -of course a bit tinge of paranormals.

Interesting, very interesting indeed. It's been a while since the last time I had the speleological adventure. Next time, indeed this cave is a must go!

Next morning, we went to this gallery below at Kuala Kangsar. The gallery storing mementos of the current sultan of Perak. Outfits, antiquities, souvenirs, you know that stuffs. In short, all things glorifying Sultan Azlan Shah!

We were exhausted after seeing all those spoons, plates, pajamas, portraits, jewelries, all things trivial and crucial. We took a nap at the VIP room. Comfy. Cool. Royal. El grande. Only for both of us that afternoon! 

Guys, make way for the His Highness and Most Holiness Tun Tan Sri Dato' Amar Diraja Yang Berbahagia Lagi Mulia Razif! Wait,something about the couch...

Yep, a gift from Emperor of Japan himself just for Razif to have a good midday snooze~

Yo king, were busts or statues are meant for fallen heroes and Islam endorse aniconism? Oh I forgot you're the king and kings have exemptions and lot of excuses.

Picture perfect with a princess beside. Oh my darling angel, where were you when I need one.

We prayed at the nearby Ubudiah Mosque, the edifice already covered in my blog before. Then, I paid some respect on the great Sultan Idris, ancestor of Sultan Azlan Shah. He was responsible for the mosque. Responsible for my brother's alma mater Universiti Pendidikan Sultan Idris. 

He criticized them during Durbar meeting in 1897 and enjoyed British money afterwards. And responsible for keeping Perak chained under the colonialist administration. 

His tomb dominated the Royal Mausoleum beside the mosque. May you rest in peace, brother Idris.

Outside, I spotted one grand tomb. It belonged to the previous Perak Sultan. I concluded that the adjacent empty plot is where Sultan Azlan Shah will be interred. Sorry dear king, I already booked your final resting place :) 

Before I head home for good in KL, I stopped by at a junction in Kuala Kangsar with the oldest rubber tree in Malaysia. Such a historical plant that this is the forefather of all rubber trees of Malaysia that turned Malaya into one of the rubber producers in the world and cash cow for the British colonialists. I took a fallen bark as souvenir.  

In the end, these lines shall suit them all well:

Two big houses,

One incomplete,

Other turned gallery,

Such void, lifeless,

Not even  fit to call home~

The journey was an enlightenment. Even at places so familiar as these in Perak, I always find something to discover. I shall always look forward for more travels in the states of Malaysia, and ultimately, more entries for my blog. 

This is no longer just about traveling, this is my spiritual journey, my personal pilgrimage...

... and it has been my true epiphany.

RESPECTO.

New Perak Expedition - Epiphany Part 1

PROLOGUE: 5 Months Hiatus. Gone through one helluva ride of life. And I missed blogging so damn freakin' much!

I know I've been MIA for almost half of century. I forgot about traveling. I forgot about blogging.

I forgot about life...

...and all the sweetness that its juice has to offer.

Nevertheless, it's so good to be here again. This time I went back to Perak again to seek refuge under the calmness and soothing atmosphere of old Kuala Kangsar. My best buddy Razif has been great host as usual. We planned for yet-to-go places and there in nearby Batu Gajah amidst the drizzling dewy drops, we found a perfect spot.

All photos are courtesy from Razif with his over powerful DSLR. 

At far, it stood majestically on a hill. Yet it seemed to mourn over itself...

crying...
begging...

Guys, meet Kellie's Castle - Mansion of Mourner.

"I expected you snapped all alphabets." Oh well, guys, take a wild guess. Is it KELUMPOR? KEUWWLL? or KELUANGMAN?

The big house was constructed in 1915 until 1926 when it remains unfinished today. With empty hallways, unpainted walls and ceilings, the mansion was merely skeleton of its former self that once grandiosely imagined by its Scottish owner, William Kellie Smith.

3 floors and off we go exploring them all!

At the altar of the house's chapel. No more blessing Mary on this one.

From Italy to England to Malaya to where is it now?

Will, are you sure this is the place because...

The bar was sure hot as all hell. Plus no ventilation whatsoever and in complete darkness. (I can't see a thing during this photo shoot even at broad daylight). I think this was a bar + sauna.

Spooky corridor. If he indeed still lingers, he and the tourist will have a great time having afternoon tea. Or a bit of Scottish fiddle. But I personal think he might say this.

Yeah Will, ye olde homestead is indeed far, far away...

One interesting point though, the mansion was built for his dear wife. The picture here said she was young and beautiful. To me she looked like your usual English version of makcik living in similar English counterpart of Kg Changkat. Agnes Smith, could it be..?    

I guess genetic manipulation was a incomplete back then. Better take the mother, Will! 

Now some outdoor venture of the castle compound. The afternoon drizzle later subsided. With skill obtained from my ancestor via Animus, I tried to ascend the wall of Will's castle-

Tried to peek on the ghost of Agnes Smith but yielded none...

Finally reached the summit of Kellie's Castle 3 floors high! Felt like Mother Russia here...

And the air up there provided quite a view...

OK, enough Ezio /Altair/ Spiderman crap already!

On top of old well. Not well to drink.

Razif also struggled to climb. God-damn he's fast!

"Pak Ali, why don't you just use stairs like everybody else?". 

No wonder.

At one of the guard's house. An incomplete jigsaw. Something is missing. 

That's better.

The tour was concluded after some 1 hour exploration. As we head to our ride, we took a quick glance on Will's balcony. A bird flew peculiarly awkward and plummeted to the ground nearby. It was a chick of unknown bird species to me. Sick and wounded. Probably bitten by some wild cat. We put it properly under a tree and sadly left it to fate of whatever Mother Nature would cast upon it...

The bird in red circle.

Aww, you poor little darling... Don't worry. Some hungry snake will fetch you later. 

We left Will and his perpetual plea to restore his mansion. Next, we continue southwards for Pasir Salak. We lost our ways quite a few times. Yet, we this opportunity to discover new routes and places. 

Lot of new places. New people with new memories. Perak never fails to mesmerize me...

Pasir Salak. I hope both ghosts of Birch and Maharajalela would receive me with open arms,

in the land once hateful violence ruled supreme, 

and now such a peace and quiet sanctuary...

(to be continued)

RESPECTO.

Taiping & Kuala Kangsar - Perak Twin Serenity

After a few weeks away, I returned to Kuala Kangsar. This time I experienced the small town since I didn't have the opportunity to do so during the Lenggong speleological journey. Me and Ajib went to Taiping first thing in the morning, indeed the First Town in Malaysia with many titles with 'first' in everything, like first museum, first zoo and first lake garden. The latter was our first stop:

The Taiping Lake Garden. Algae bloom at its best.

Judging by age and size, this must be the First tree in Malaya

The town is an old yet bustling one. The trace of British Malaya remnants are present everywhere. The spirits of the colonialists survived, in form of decrepit buildings and old trees. If the tree above could talk, it would say something like this -"Come later at midnight and see how spooky I am".

Taiping Zoo -where animals are held captive, at mercy and whims of humans.

The Taiping Zoo is adjacent to the garden. Next, Taiping Museum. As an artifact aficionado, I went to lots of museum. I expected this one to have items came from Pangkor Treaty, Birch assassination, Larut War or other things uniquely Perak-ish. Instead, we were bored to death with cultural stuffs seen many times in TV. Seemed like 1Malaysia on tour. They forget to add the title 'The first boring museum in the world'. Yet, the nature lover would find their time worthwhile here:

Taiping Museum - not in the mood for bone soup

Few things unique -Assassination plaque 

F-86 Sabre: Let's kill the commie cunts!

Now, the real adventure begin. We stopped by at the Taiping War Cemetery, where the brave WW2 dead soldiers were buried. It was intersected by a road shown below, dividing into 2 section -Caucasians and Asians. Talking about afterlife discrimination. Yet the place was neat with cut grass and trimmed lawn, adding relaxing element to the serene environment. I bet the gardener comes here everyday just to keep the dead happy in the hereafter...

Taiping War Cemetery - orderly burial, but down under is another story...

Yep, because in wartime they had to bury the soldiers randomly and quick. So the remains are effectively EVERYWHERE on site. That explained some exhumation taking place when we were there in order to identify the remains, even after more than 60 years past..

Asian section. Living guerrilla and fallen ones.

I wonder how the dead would react to this. Yes, you will be remembered forever in the cyberworld.

 

My own personal respect to the fallen soldiers.

My journey wouldn't be complete without some food feast. Here we are, indulging on prawn noodles at Mee Udang Mak Jah at Kuala Sepetang. They are many stalls available, but I suggest you go for this one.  It cost RM7 for usual noodle, but we ordered the special one for RM11. Simply delicious! Long queue, yet it worth the wait.  

Lucky number for the groovy grub.

"Your Taiping adventure is futile without a stop at Mak Jah" -Ajib, a Perak native.

The light was drawing its curtain, and we went back to Kuala Kangsar. We stopped at the famous Ubudiah Mosque. Truthfully the most beautiful mosque in Malaysia. I have a special esteem on Sultan Idris, one who ordered the construction of the imposing edifice. To build the mosque, he ordered expensive marbles from Italy, and some were broken by on-site raging elephants. The construction was halted many months and sadly not finished during his lifetime. He was buried in the tomb next to the mosque.

Mind you that the cost was a staggering RM200,000 -money obtained via loan from the British. Now you know how the colonialist kept their power here in Malaya. It's not by force, but by temptation of money and superficial power. I felt divided to see the mosque whether as a proud present to our generation, or a symbol of the past spoilt lifestyle.

Nevertheless, Sultan Idris will be very proud! - Ubudiah Mosque

Where he was interred, along with the successors, and later, our beloved current Sultan Azlan Shah.

Sunset heralding the end of the journey, with Idrisiah school in the foreground.

Moral story is, imagine what will happen to our name 100 years later. Will it still be remembered? As honorable as the quiet soldiers of the War Cemetery? Or as pompous as Sultan Idris? Fortunately, Internet is the key.

RESPECTO.